Cambodia - Angkor Wat, Siem Reap

In the olden times, ancient aliens used to visit our land and meddle with our affairs. They taught humans how to build great structures that withstood the test of time. The great pyramids of Egypt, Machu Picchu of Peru and Angkor Wat of Cambodia all connects to a certain celestial meaning that continues to baffle our present greatest minds.

In not so distant past, actually few years back, Lara Croft, journeyed to Angkor Wat in searched of a powerful artifact which has a supernatural or alien power. Before she got hold of the prized artifact she needs to kill and destroy terrifying mystical monsters and beings. She even traveled back in time to meet her father.

Fast forward to present, I have decided to visit Angkor Wat to fulfill one of my lifelong dreams, not to travel back in time or meet some aliens but rather to see the splendid legacy of Angkor Wat with my own eyes.

road to eastern  gate

Upon setting foot on the eastern gate of Angkor Wat I can't contain my excitement because like an ancient explorer, it took me some time before I was able to see its real grandeur. I need to walk on dusty and deserted road and even encounter wild monkeys loitering around.

Actually, I didn't know that I was already entering Angkor Wat because my tuk-tuk driver didn't tell me that it would be the first temple we would visit on my 3-day pass. Besides, I used to see on the net the wide lake and the old pathway where millions of visitors have threaded.

However, there were few tourists traversing on this path. I simply followed the road while my excitement was slowly building up since the towers looked familiar from afar. After more than an hour of exploring, I reached the main temple and countless of tourists started appearing. I wanted to jump at that time. I never thought that I was already in Angkor Wat. It was really a surprise. I was very thankful to Moori for showing me the off the beaten path of entering Angkor Wat. Nevertheless, he promised to bring me to the main entrance on the 3rd day of my temple pass.

the Eastern Gate

wild monkey

Even at this point I can't help but exclaim, I am here! I am in Angkor Wat. I used to marvel at this place whenever I see it on magazine and on National Geographic Channel. 

I have been to many touristy places and even visited The Killing Fields and S21 which touched my inner being. They are great places to visit and examine ourselves. However, upon seeing Angkor Wat, the feeling was simply indescribable. I am here in one of the greatest places on earth where the great old ways of life can still be seen and felt.

While strolling around the area, I tried to imagine myself being transported back to the glory days of Angkor Wat; I hope Lara Croft can lend me her artifact so I can travel back in time. Anyway, I am sure that Angkor Wat would make its  people proud for having such a great place to worship. I tried to visualize how they live and socialize with each other. Do they party? How do they live? Where are their treasures?

 

Until now, I can still feel some excitement and longing whenever I see my photoshoots in Angkor Wat. If you happen to visit Siem Reap and short in funds then there are two main temples that you need to see, Bayoun and Angkor Wat. To add, Angkor Wat was originally a Hindu temple but due to course of time it was converted into Buddhist temple. This is the reason why you can see illustrations or scenes from Indian literature such as unicorns, griffins and so on.

Angkor Wat's main entrance

I spent 3 hours inside Angkor Wat on my first visit through the eastern gate and spent another 2 hours on my second visit. This time I entered through the main gate where countless tourists were traversing the old pathways crossing the man-made lake.

The feeling of touching and walking on a thousand year old structure is awesome. I never thought that I would finally fulfill my dream of spending a few hours of my earthly life in Angkor Wat.

I would recommend to would-be tourist of Angkor Wat to spend some of your time exploring minute details engraved on its walls and temple pillars. Moreover, try to enter or exit Angkor Wat through its eastern gate. You won't regret.

MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU

                          

This is my first entry for the April Blog Carnival with the theme "My Ultimate Dream Destination And Pledge It Into A Reality" being hosted by Rob thetravellingdork.

For previous Blog Carnival topics please visit Estan Cabigas langyaw - pinoytravelbloggerssblogcarnival.

Cambodia - Temple Hopping at Siem Reap (Intro)

I believe I need to post about the things that might be of help in case you plan to go temple hopping at Siem Reap, Cambodia. It is better to be prepared so you can maximize your temple hopping experience because this could be once in a lifetime opportunity for others.

I went there expecting to see the famous Angkor Wat and nothing else. I've never expected that there are several dozens of ancient and equally magnificent temple ruins waiting to be explored as well. Not to mention the floating village and Tonle Sap, to name a few. Fortunately, I got some extra bucks to cover these unexpected expenses.

some temples are not even included on this list

Every tourist needs to pay temple entrance fee.

20 USD for 1 day unlimited temple visit           
40 USD for 2 or 3 days unlimited temple visit
60 USD for 7 days unlimited temple visit

I paid 40 USD for 3 days unlimited temple pass. Tuk-tuk fare is not yet included. As indicated on Ta Som Guesthouse board, the tuk-tuk fare is as follows:

12 USD for first day
14 USD for second day
32 USD for third day

Total fare was 58 USD. Moori gave me 4 USD discount so I paid him 54 UKSD after 3 days of temple hopping. The price is not per head but rather per daily contract of the tuk-tuk service. Thus, you pay the same daily rate even if you are two. Moreover, you can also hire car or bus depending on how large is your tour group. The price is much higher.

Moori provided chilled bottled water during our entire 3 days trip. Lunch was not included. But through his help, I was able to get at least 40% discount on my lunch. I simply followed his instruction on where to eat. Additionally, he gave me some tips about the souvenir vendors. Bought a good quality "Ancient Angkor" book for 5 USD. It was a bargain considering that the vendor was initially asking for 20 USD. You can also ask your tuk-tuk driver to stop in case you want to buy something along the way. You may try the steamed sticky rice with banana filling wrapped in banana leaf then roasted on charcoal. It was like our barbequed "suman," 3 pieces for 1 USD. I got 4 pieces for 1 USD due to Moori. It was yummy and filling. In fact, they served as my dinner. You may try also the 1 USD palm juice.

There are temples which are quite far thus they normally arrange the trips to these temples on the third day. If you have extra bucks and time I would suggest that you try to visit these temples as well especially the so-called "lady temple."

On your first day of temple hopping, your tuk-tuk driver will bring you to Apsara authority office where you will pay the temple ticket. Your photo will be taken by webcam while in queue and will be imprinted on your pass or ticket. In my case, I paid 40 USD for 3-days unlimited temple visit.

At the first temple you'll visit on that day, a staff manning the temple entrance will punch a hole to your ticket in order to mark the number of days you have spent visiting the temples. Hence, for 3-days pass you can have maximum of 3 punched holes on your ticket. More so, you may consume your 3-days temple pass within the week. The ticket is non-transferable. For 7-days pass, the ticket is laminated and comes with larn yarn.

I advise you to bring the following for your convenience and safety. Trust me, I found myself crawling in some temples due to steepy and narrow stairs. Usually, you won't find any shade when you are entering or climbing the temple.

- fully charged cam & tripod if you're alone
- dust mask
- sunscreen/sunblock lotion
- hat or umbrella
- comfy/rubber shoes
- face towel
- USD for food and souvenir items

In some temples, you'll find a group of local musicians. Some of them are disabled due to land mine. You can buy a copy of their CD/DVD. If you plan to have a photo-shoot with them then it is nice to give some donation to these hard working guys.

Souvenir and food vendors abound in almost all the temples. Saying "no" sometimes is not enough. Just ignore them. Some of them would even try to befriend you and ask you to buy "coconut" after your temple visit. In addition, upon learning you are a Filipino, they would even mention Mari-mar. Yes, they are watching some of our telenovelas. Because of this, it would be very difficult to refuse their chilled coconut even if that would be your third coconut of the day. My tip, buy a chilled coconut if you like it but don't throw it after consuming the juice. Place it inside the tuk-tuk and show it to the other coconut vendors in case they would keep on pestering you on your next temple. It worked for me.

Be forewarned that most of these ancient temples are still being used as place of worship by their devotees. Try to be respectful whenever you are inside any temple. Clothes should cover your shoulder up to knees otherwise you will not be allowed to enter some temples unless you shell out extra dollars to rent a shawl or sheet to cover your body. T-shirt and long shorts are acceptable.

Likewise, touts abound in some temples. You might be enticed to lit some incense sticks for a fee while some of them are even wearing police uniform. They would show you which places are good for picture taking; sometimes they would even offer their service as tour-guide or your personal photographer. But at the end of the day, you will be asked to pay. Just ignore them and don't even try to make eye-contact with them. They normally prey on solo tourist like me. The guy was wearing a cop uniform, can't say no. Shelled 5 USD reluctantly but the places he showed to me for photo-shoot was equally superb.

For toilet, just ask the tuk-tuk driver to bring you to the nearest toilet. Nothing to worry because the toilets are secured, decent and well-kept; they are located few meters from the main road. You are free to use the toilets as long as your temple pass is valid otherwise you pay 0.50 cents. 

For a 3-days unlimited temple visit, prepare around 100 USD excluding hotel. You can now start planning your temple hopping and be ready for an experience of a life time.

ENJOY!

Stay tuned for my Angkor temple hopping.

Cambodia - Tuol Sleng (Security Prison 21)

S21 or Security Prison 21 was a movie adaptation of Tuol Sleng. I haven't watch the film but I was able to visit the actual place in Phnom Penh. To give you a brief history of the place, it used to be a High School turned into prison by Khmer Rouge. Most of the prisoners were intellectuals, government officials and soldiers of previous regime, monks, etc. Later, Khmer Rouge regime turned on its own ranks and thousand of its party members and their families were also tortured and executed at Tuol Sleng.  

Inside Tuol Sleng, these rules are to be followed strictly.

Presently, there are four (three-storey) buildings inside Tuol Sleng. Building A has large holding rooms where the bodies of last 14 victims were found.

Inside building B are mainly photos of the victims.

The students used this gallows in front of building B to stretch and tone their bodies but after converting the school into prison, the prison guards/interrogators used this gallows to hang the prisoners arms bound at the back until they lost consciousness. 

Building C was transformed into single holding cells made of bricks and woods. The victims defecate and urinate inside their cells using improvised metal tins and jerry cans. They can't even drink without asking permission from the prison guards otherwise, they would be beaten severely. They were always shackled to the wall or concrete floor.

an old school black board

Building D contains mainly memorabilia including the instruments of torture. A video presentation is also being shown at 10 AM, if I remember it correctly, at 3rd floor of this building.

a Buddhist altar surrounded by skulls and bones of the victims

torture tools

video room in building D

more picture of the victims

Out of an estimated 17,000 prisoners, there were only seven known survivors. However, only three of them are thought to be still alive. They survived because of their skills which were put in use by the prison staff. One of them is a mechanic while the other is a painter or artist.

I had a golden opportunity to meet two of them. It costs me 10 USD for each photo shoot and some memorabilia. These two now stand as witnesses against the genocidal acts of Khmer Rouge regime.

Bou Meng - artist

Chum Mey - mechanic

When the invading Vietnamese troops discovered S21, they found 14 bodies inside building A. They buried them inside the prison compound. They were the last victims before the S21 staff fled from the prison compound







During its first year, S21 executed prisoners were buried near the prison compound. Later, when there was no more space for burial, the prisoners and their families were sent to Choeung Ek (The Killing Field), 15 kms from the city, to be executed.

The whole compound was surrounded by electrified barbed wires to prevent the prisoners from escaping while the barbed wires of building C were used to prevent the prisoners from committing suicide by jumping from the 3rd or 2nd floors.

If you will visit Tuol Sleng first before Cheoung Ek, you can't help but ask yourself why they need to execute also the children. I learned the answer from the narration from the audio set I used in Choeung Ek. Khmer Rouge believed that to kill the weeds you need to remove its roots. In other words, to prevent revenge, the kids need to be executed as well.







I went to this place by tuk-tuk and paid 3 USD per trip. Fortunately, the tuk-tuk driver decided to wait thus I paid him another 3 USD for the trip back to hotel. I spent around two hours inside the compound and paid 2 USD entrance fee. To add, this place is not ideal for kids.